LANSING – While many Michigan business owners struggle to find their footing under a prolonged economic fog, local winemakers have taken a “glass half full approach” to the recession, saying the economy has actually contributed to increased sales of state-produced wines.

With the unique Great Lakes climate, soil and water and the most supportive laws of any state besides California, the stage is set for more people to learn about and appreciate Michigan’s unique grape growing ability and the palate pleasing wines they produce, said Mike Beck, president of Wine Michigan.

From Governor Jennifer Granholm’s proclamation last month as April is Michigan Wine Month, to legislation that makes it easier to ship wine, to the “corking” law that allows restaurant customers to take an unfinished bottle home, state policies will likely lead to continued enjoyment of local wine, said Beck.

“The future of Michigan wine is bright,” he said of an industry that last year marked its 330th anniversary in Michigan (researchers have found evidence of wine development in Michigan territory as early as 1679, nearly 30 years before Cadillac founded Detroit).

A common trend among recreation and travel spending, including wine purchases, is that people turn to in-state offerings that offer a lower price and allow them to keep limited discretionary funds in the state, said Linda Jones, chair of the Michigan Grape and Wine Industry Council.

That increased enthusiasm has led to double-digit increases in local wine sales over the past decade and, more recently, has kept sales from falling or allowed for small increases, even as consumers pinch pennies, she said.

It is showing itself as well in the number of wineries the state now has. A decade ago, the Wine and Grape Industry Council identified 25 wineries in Michigan. Now it lists 71 with another four, at least, expected to open this year.

Steve Scheffel, president of Goodrich’s Shop Rite in East Lansing, said his store actually experiences a shortage of local wine at times when people buy bottles faster than he can replenish them.

Of the approximately 3,500 varieties of wine in stock at Goodrich’s, about 250 are from Michigan, he said.

“If somebody had told me 10 years ago that we’d stock Michigan wines from 25 different vineyards, I would’ve told them they were crazy,” said Scheffel.

Like Goodrich’s, Dusty’s Cellar in Okemos also sells more Michigan wines than ever before, said Steve Okuly, Dusty’s retail manager and wine buyer.

He said he displays more Michigan wines than from any other region except California, which has a slightly larger stock.

Like most of the wineries and retailers, Okuly said Dusty’s, once known “as the expensive wine shop,” has adjusted its stock to become more affordable.

Two years ago, after observing increasing frugal behavior from his customers, Okuly began stocking at least one brand in every wine variety for under $15.

Bob Jacobson, owner of Leelanau Wine Cellars near Traverse City, agreed that wines ranging from $10 to $15 a bottle will see more growth than more expensive bottles.

He said large wineries such as his are able to specialize in bottles under $10 because they can absorb overhead. However, Jacobson said, smaller, “boutique” wineries, which represent the majority of wineries in the country, depend more heavily on direct shipping laws and customer loyalty, since their wine will likely cost more.

All winemakers benefit from exposure in restaurants, which is increasing for Michigan wines, said Andy Deloney, vice president of public affairs at the Michigan Restaurant Association.

“In former years, some restaurants would offer a token local wine but now that local wineries have perfected their craft, they are also getting more recognition on the menus,” he said.

In order for local wine makers to increase their presence in restaurants, they must continue to promote the uniqueness of their product and stay cost competitive, he said.

While demand for local wine has been increasing, it still accounts for only 6 percent of all wine sold in the state, up from 3 percent 12 years ago, according to the Liquor Control Commission.

But if any state can rival the better-known flavors of states such as California, it’s Michigan, Beck said.

“No one in the world can grow better Riesling (grapes) than us,” he said of one of his favorite Michigan wines.

Jacobson agreed, saying as Michigan wineries perfect colder weather varieties and scientists help generate better ways to grow grapes thought previously not to stand a chance in the state’s harsh seasons, he expects local wine sales to continue gaining momentum.

This story was provided by Gongwer News Service. To subscribe, click on Gongwer.Com

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